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MOURNING JEWELLERY: LOVE, LOSS & REMEMBRANCE

annie king
Apr 1
4 min read

lover's eye mourning jewellery — Lover's Eye Jewellery

Throughout history, jewellery has been more than mere adornment—it has served as a vessel for memory, sentiment, and even grief. Among the most poignant examples of this is mourning jewellery, a tradition that reached its peak during the Victorian era. From intricate antique mourning jewellery crafted from jet and enamel to the delicate and deeply personal mourning jewellery with hair, or pieces designed with hidden "lovers eyes". These pieces were designed to honour lost loved ones and keep their presence alive. But what sparked this custom? Why did it become such an essential part of Victorian life, and why did it eventually fall out of fashion?

memento mori ring from the roman era — A roman memento mori ring

Early Examples of Mourning Jewellery: A Longstanding Tradition

The concept of mourning jewellery is not exclusive to the Victorian era. The practice dates back centuries, with some of the earliest known examples found in Ancient Egypt and Rome. Roman women would wear rings set with engraved gemstones or carved cameos featuring portraits of the deceased. During the Middle Ages, mourning rings became a common bequest in wills, particularly among the European aristocracy.

By the 17th and 18th centuries, mourning jewellery had developed into a more defined tradition. The introduction of memento mori jewellery, which often featured skulls, hourglasses, and coffins, served as a stark reminder of mortality. These pieces were particularly popular during the Baroque and Georgian periods, emphasising both the inevitability of death and the importance of spiritual preparation.

queen Victoria's mourning jewellery — Queen Victoria's mourning ring for Prince Albert

The Victorian Era: The Height of Mourning Jewellery

While mourning jewellery had existed for centuries, it was during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837–1901) that it became a full-fledged phenomenon. The death of Prince Albert in 1861 sent the Queen into deep mourning, and her public display of grief set the tone for an entire era. For decades, she wore Victorian mourning jewellery, often crafted from jet—a deep black gemstone mined in Whitby, England.

As mourning became a structured social ritual, jewellery played a crucial role. Victorians followed strict mourning periods, and their attire—including jewellery—was expected to reflect their grief. Widows were expected to wear black mourning clothes and accessories for extended periods, sometimes for years. Antique mourning jewellery from this time typically featured:

Jet and onyx – These dark, glossy stones were considered appropriate for mourning, as they symbolised sorrow and loss.
Enamel details – Black enamel was used to create striking contrast against gold, with inscriptions such as "In Memory Of".
Mourning jewellery with hair – One of the most sentimental aspects of Victorian mourning jewellery was the incorporation of hair from the deceased, woven into brooches, lockets, and rings.
Portrait lockets and cameos – Some pieces featured miniature portraits or silhouettes of the departed.
Pearls – Often representing tears, pearls were sometimes incorporated into mourning pieces, especially for young children or unmarried women who had passed.

mourning jewellery ring with patterned hair work — Woven hair work in a ring

Mourning Jewellery with Hair: A Sentimental Keepsake

Perhaps the most unique and intimate form of Victorian mourning jewellery was that which incorporated hair. Hairwork had been used in jewellery for centuries, but the Victorians turned it into an art form. Hair from the deceased was carefully woven into intricate patterns, formed into flowers, or even braided into chains for necklaces and bracelets.

The use of hair in mourning jewellery was deeply symbolic. Unlike flowers or fabric, hair does not decay, making it a lasting memento of a loved one. Many families commissioned jewellers to create custom pieces, ensuring that they had a tangible connection to their departed relatives. This practice was not limited to mourning; some lovers and friends exchanged jewellery containing hair as a token of affection and remembrance.

art nouveau hair ornament — Art nouveau hair ornament

The Decline of Mourning Jewellery: A Changing Society

By the early 20th century, mourning jewellery began to fall out of fashion. Several factors contributed to its decline:

Changing mourning customs – The rigid mourning periods and traditions that defined Victorian society began to loosen, particularly after World War I. With mass loss of life, strict mourning practices became impractical.
Modernisation and new materials – The Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements brought about a shift toward more stylised and contemporary jewellery, moving away from the dark, somber designs of mourning jewellery.
A shift in attitudes toward death – As scientific advancements and changing religious beliefs evolved, death became less of a public spectacle and more of a private, personal experience. Mourning jewellery was no longer seen as a necessary outward expression of grief.

modern day mourning jewellery — Modern day mourning jewellery by Margaret Cross

Mourning Jewellery Today: A Resurgence in Sentimental Jewellery

While traditional Victorian mourning jewellery may no longer be in vogue, there has been a resurgence of interest in sentimental jewellery. Many collectors seek out antique mourning jewellery, appreciating its craftsmanship, historical significance, and emotional depth.

In the modern jewellery world, the concept of commemorative and memorial pieces is making a quiet return. Today’s designers are creating:

Cremation jewellery – Lockets and rings that contain small amounts of cremated remains, offering a contemporary take on mourning jewellery.
Fingerprint jewellery – Custom pieces featuring the engraved fingerprints of a lost loved one.
Hair Work revival – Some jewellers are reviving the art of hair work, creating pieces that pay homage to the Victorian tradition while modernising the aesthetic.
Custom engraved pieces – Rings and pendants with significant dates, names, or messages to commemorate loved ones.

A Legacy of Love and Memory

Although mourning jewellery is no longer the social necessity it once was, its historical significance remains undeniable. The Victorians understood that jewellery could be more than just a beautiful accessory—it could be a tangible link to those we have lost. Today, whether through antique pieces or modern interpretations, the spirit of mourning jewellery endures, offering comfort, remembrance, and a lasting tribute to the ones who have shaped our lives.

For those fascinated by history, sentimentality, and the beauty of past craftsmanship, Victorian mourning jewellery serves as a reminder that love and memory can be preserved in the most exquisite of ways. Whether seeking a piece of antique mourning jewellery for a collection or considering a custom mourning jewellery with hair design, these pieces continue to tell stories that span generations.